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	<title>Comments for Handyman Repair Services</title>
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	<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net</link>
	<description>Find a great Handyman Repair Service</description>
	<pubDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2010 16:04:54 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Comment on How do you repair a stopped toilet? by llittle mama</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet/comment-page-1#comment-45</link>
		<dc:creator>llittle mama</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 13:47:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet#comment-45</guid>
		<description>Rent or buy a plumbers snake.  they have claw type things on the end that will grab the problem and pull it out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rent or buy a plumbers snake.  they have claw type things on the end that will grab the problem and pull it out.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on What is the easiest way to repair ceiling wall board that I just partially steped through.? by Ever Wolf</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/ceiling-repair/what-is-the-easiest-way-to-repair-ceiling-wall-board-that-i-just-partially-steped-through/comment-page-1#comment-69</link>
		<dc:creator>Ever Wolf</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 13:40:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/ceiling-repair/what-is-the-easiest-way-to-repair-ceiling-wall-board-that-i-just-partially-steped-through#comment-69</guid>
		<description>No offense to anyone here, but this really is simple, and the young lady suggesting the plywood between studs has a clue.

    If the Drywall is only cracked, but not pushed down at the nail/screw attachements, go back into the attic,,, Take plywood but use it for attic flooring, at least walkways. Above the area you stepped into secure a 2 x 4,,, or two, between the studs/rafters, then from the bath ceiling tap nails, or screw drywall screws up into those 2 x 4 brace pieces, mud, sand, paint, and be careful next time,,,smiles.

Rev. Steven&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;40 plus years as a contractor</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>No offense to anyone here, but this really is simple, and the young lady suggesting the plywood between studs has a clue.</p>
<p>    If the Drywall is only cracked, but not pushed down at the nail/screw attachements, go back into the attic,,, Take plywood but use it for attic flooring, at least walkways. Above the area you stepped into secure a 2 x 4,,, or two, between the studs/rafters, then from the bath ceiling tap nails, or screw drywall screws up into those 2 x 4 brace pieces, mud, sand, paint, and be careful next time,,,smiles.</p>
<p>Rev. Steven<br /><b>References : </b><br />40 plus years as a contractor</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I repair drywall after dog has &#8216;eaten&#8217; a chuck out of it? by John G</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-do-i-repair-drywall-after-dog-has-eaten-a-chuck-out-of-it/comment-page-1#comment-54</link>
		<dc:creator>John G</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 13:35:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-do-i-repair-drywall-after-dog-has-eaten-a-chuck-out-of-it#comment-54</guid>
		<description>Fortunately this is an easy fix.

First of all, preserve a section of the damaged material that has paint showing on it.

Look at the area to be painted once the damage is repaired. Despite what one respondent said, you don't need to do the entire room. Just paint from the damaged corner back to the next corner, in both directions. I'm betting a quart will do the job; you can even water the paint down a bit if you're running low.

Take your paint sample to the store and get a quart of that same color -they can get very close to the original with a special machine that reads color. 

While you are there, pick up:

1. Light weight spackling compound, two small containers should do the job. Red Devil makes it. You know you've got the right stuff when you pick the container off the shelf and it feels empty -it is that light!

2. A putty or spackling kinfe/scraper -if you don't have one already.

3. A cheap paint brush and/or roller kit if you don't already have them.

4. A sanding sponge block  -it looks like, and feels like, a small sponge.  Even though it feels soft, it does have a tough grit and will do the job. Because it is a block, it will maintain contact evenly with the wall as you use it.

Now back home:

When you open the container of spackling compound, mix the top 1/2&#34; or so with a putty knife, stirring and  pushing it around until its like crisco. If you don't, it will break apart when you try to apply it. If it helps, put a big dab on a flat surface, like a cookie sheet and mess it around until it will stick to a putty knife without breaking up. Play around with it a bit so you see how it &#34;works.&#34; Do this now and then as you use the spackle so it stay creamy.

Clean up the damaged area, removing bits of plaster and shreds of the paper so all the surfaces are solid. Then use the putty knife to apply the spackle, but only fill the damaged area about half way to the surface and let dry overnight. Next day, fill to to be even with the wall. Because you're working on an outside corner, you should be able to use the long side of it to smooth the surface. Don't over-work it; once it is &#34;about&#34; right, let it dry overnight again, then sand it smooth next day, using your block in a circular motion.

Now repaint, and you're done!&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fortunately this is an easy fix.</p>
<p>First of all, preserve a section of the damaged material that has paint showing on it.</p>
<p>Look at the area to be painted once the damage is repaired. Despite what one respondent said, you don&#8217;t need to do the entire room. Just paint from the damaged corner back to the next corner, in both directions. I&#8217;m betting a quart will do the job; you can even water the paint down a bit if you&#8217;re running low.</p>
<p>Take your paint sample to the store and get a quart of that same color -they can get very close to the original with a special machine that reads color. </p>
<p>While you are there, pick up:</p>
<p>1. Light weight spackling compound, two small containers should do the job. Red Devil makes it. You know you&#8217;ve got the right stuff when you pick the container off the shelf and it feels empty -it is that light!</p>
<p>2. A putty or spackling kinfe/scraper -if you don&#8217;t have one already.</p>
<p>3. A cheap paint brush and/or roller kit if you don&#8217;t already have them.</p>
<p>4. A sanding sponge block  -it looks like, and feels like, a small sponge.  Even though it feels soft, it does have a tough grit and will do the job. Because it is a block, it will maintain contact evenly with the wall as you use it.</p>
<p>Now back home:</p>
<p>When you open the container of spackling compound, mix the top 1/2&quot; or so with a putty knife, stirring and  pushing it around until its like crisco. If you don&#8217;t, it will break apart when you try to apply it. If it helps, put a big dab on a flat surface, like a cookie sheet and mess it around until it will stick to a putty knife without breaking up. Play around with it a bit so you see how it &quot;works.&quot; Do this now and then as you use the spackle so it stay creamy.</p>
<p>Clean up the damaged area, removing bits of plaster and shreds of the paper so all the surfaces are solid. Then use the putty knife to apply the spackle, but only fill the damaged area about half way to the surface and let dry overnight. Next day, fill to to be even with the wall. Because you&#8217;re working on an outside corner, you should be able to use the long side of it to smooth the surface. Don&#8217;t over-work it; once it is &quot;about&quot; right, let it dry overnight again, then sand it smooth next day, using your block in a circular motion.</p>
<p>Now repaint, and you&#8217;re done!<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How to repair drywall that has adhesive patches all over from removing decorative mirror tiles? by Cthulhu</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-to-repair-drywall-that-has-adhesive-patches-all-over-from-removing-decorative-mirror-tiles/comment-page-1#comment-59</link>
		<dc:creator>Cthulhu</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 13:23:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-to-repair-drywall-that-has-adhesive-patches-all-over-from-removing-decorative-mirror-tiles#comment-59</guid>
		<description>Do as you said but sanding down the adhesive will damage the paper of the drywall.  No big deal.  It's important to seal the damaged drywall before you put on your skim coat.  Use a product like &#34;GARDZ Damaged Drywall Sealer&#34; on the areas you sanded, let it dry and apply your skim coat.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#60;-- Has done a lot of drywall repairs in his house.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do as you said but sanding down the adhesive will damage the paper of the drywall.  No big deal.  It&#8217;s important to seal the damaged drywall before you put on your skim coat.  Use a product like &quot;GARDZ Damaged Drywall Sealer&quot; on the areas you sanded, let it dry and apply your skim coat.<br /><b>References : </b><br />&lt;&#8211; Has done a lot of drywall repairs in his house.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do you repair a stopped toilet? by chet w</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet/comment-page-1#comment-44</link>
		<dc:creator>chet w</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 13:12:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet#comment-44</guid>
		<description>Well, calling a plumber is probably the best thing.  I am a plumber and I know that this call would cost a pretty penny and let me tell you why.  The item you are refering to is lodged in the toilet itself (as apposed to the 3&#34; drain in the floor).  A good plumber would never try to 'snake' the toilet because that would not remove the item, only lodge it further down the drain.   In this case, I would first turn off the supply to the toilet located on the left side of the toilet just under the tank.  Remove the tank lid and set aside.  Push down the flusher on the front of the tank allowing all the water to 'flush' into the toilet.   Once all the water is gone you now have to remove the water supply to the toilet.  (CAUTION: make sure the shut off is not allowing water to pass)  Remove the supply either from the top of the shut off coming out of the wall, or from the bottom of the toilet tank.  A pair of pliars will be needed. Now for the entire toilet.  There are two nuts at the base of the toilet that usually have a cap.  The caps can be easily removed with a flat screwdriver.  Remove the nuts.  Now the hard part.  Place an old towel next to the toilet so as to not get the wax seal on your nice floors.  Lift the toilet off the bolts and set on the towel.  You may get a little water but this is ok because you have the towel.  Lay the entire toilet on it's side, again you will get more water.  With the toilet on it's side look underneith and inspect the hole.  You should find the item.  Remove.  Place a new wax seal (Get at any hardware store)  over the hole and reverse the process for installation.   Now you know why everyone says to just call a plumber.  But now you know exactly what is involved...&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, calling a plumber is probably the best thing.  I am a plumber and I know that this call would cost a pretty penny and let me tell you why.  The item you are refering to is lodged in the toilet itself (as apposed to the 3&quot; drain in the floor).  A good plumber would never try to &#8217;snake&#8217; the toilet because that would not remove the item, only lodge it further down the drain.   In this case, I would first turn off the supply to the toilet located on the left side of the toilet just under the tank.  Remove the tank lid and set aside.  Push down the flusher on the front of the tank allowing all the water to &#8216;flush&#8217; into the toilet.   Once all the water is gone you now have to remove the water supply to the toilet.  (CAUTION: make sure the shut off is not allowing water to pass)  Remove the supply either from the top of the shut off coming out of the wall, or from the bottom of the toilet tank.  A pair of pliars will be needed. Now for the entire toilet.  There are two nuts at the base of the toilet that usually have a cap.  The caps can be easily removed with a flat screwdriver.  Remove the nuts.  Now the hard part.  Place an old towel next to the toilet so as to not get the wax seal on your nice floors.  Lift the toilet off the bolts and set on the towel.  You may get a little water but this is ok because you have the towel.  Lay the entire toilet on it&#8217;s side, again you will get more water.  With the toilet on it&#8217;s side look underneith and inspect the hole.  You should find the item.  Remove.  Place a new wax seal (Get at any hardware store)  over the hole and reverse the process for installation.   Now you know why everyone says to just call a plumber.  But now you know exactly what is involved&#8230;<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on What is the easiest way to repair ceiling wall board that I just partially steped through.? by one_half_elf</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/ceiling-repair/what-is-the-easiest-way-to-repair-ceiling-wall-board-that-i-just-partially-steped-through/comment-page-1#comment-68</link>
		<dc:creator>one_half_elf</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 13:09:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/ceiling-repair/what-is-the-easiest-way-to-repair-ceiling-wall-board-that-i-just-partially-steped-through#comment-68</guid>
		<description>make a &#34;T&#34; out of some 2x4's that is just a little shorter than your ceiling height.  get a piece of plywood or pressboard that is at least twice the size as the area of the crack.  place tis on the crack and scoot the &#34;T&#34; up tightly against it to keep the ceiling in place for the next step.

Cut another peice of plywood to fit inbetween the rafters and long enough to cover the length of the crack from above (in the attic).  Glue this with liquid nails or another good construction glue to the back of the cracked wallboard.  You should also glue along the sides where it hits the rafters.  You can brace this with additional 2 x 4's glued on top and nailed into the rafters on either side as well.  

Allow this to dry before removing the &#34;T&#34;.  Then fill the remaining cracks with joint compound and paint.  You can also put a few screws up through the sheetrock into the plywood above if you think it needs it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;Believe it or not it just came to my mind.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>make a &quot;T&quot; out of some 2&#215;4&#8217;s that is just a little shorter than your ceiling height.  get a piece of plywood or pressboard that is at least twice the size as the area of the crack.  place tis on the crack and scoot the &quot;T&quot; up tightly against it to keep the ceiling in place for the next step.</p>
<p>Cut another peice of plywood to fit inbetween the rafters and long enough to cover the length of the crack from above (in the attic).  Glue this with liquid nails or another good construction glue to the back of the cracked wallboard.  You should also glue along the sides where it hits the rafters.  You can brace this with additional 2 x 4&#8217;s glued on top and nailed into the rafters on either side as well.  </p>
<p>Allow this to dry before removing the &quot;T&quot;.  Then fill the remaining cracks with joint compound and paint.  You can also put a few screws up through the sheetrock into the plywood above if you think it needs it.<br /><b>References : </b><br />Believe it or not it just came to my mind.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I repair drywall after dog has &#8216;eaten&#8217; a chuck out of it? by rk_king2004</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-do-i-repair-drywall-after-dog-has-eaten-a-chuck-out-of-it/comment-page-1#comment-53</link>
		<dc:creator>rk_king2004</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:55:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-do-i-repair-drywall-after-dog-has-eaten-a-chuck-out-of-it#comment-53</guid>
		<description>Check out this guide for tips on that&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;http://www.allhomerepairsyourself.com/patching-a-large-hole-in-drywall.htm</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Check out this guide for tips on that<br /><b>References : </b><br /><a href="http://www.allhomerepairsyourself.com/patching-a-large-hole-in-drywall.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.allhomerepairsyourself.com/patching-a-large-hole-in-drywall.htm</a></p>
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		<title>Comment on How do you repair a stopped toilet? by greymoon50</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet/comment-page-1#comment-43</link>
		<dc:creator>greymoon50</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:51:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet#comment-43</guid>
		<description>A good hardware store will have an item called a toilet auger. Basicly its a coiled wire in a tube that can be fed down the toilet bowl and will often grab the item down there to be pulled out. It has an open end that forms a twisted hook of sorts. When you feed it you can usually turn the thing fairly easily by its handle as you push it in, once you feel it getting hard to turn or stopping altogether you pull the whole thing out. Take a bit of feel to get it but its not hard. usually the auger will cost aroud 30 buck or so ( Alot cheaper than a 100 to 300 toilet)&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A good hardware store will have an item called a toilet auger. Basicly its a coiled wire in a tube that can be fed down the toilet bowl and will often grab the item down there to be pulled out. It has an open end that forms a twisted hook of sorts. When you feed it you can usually turn the thing fairly easily by its handle as you push it in, once you feel it getting hard to turn or stopping altogether you pull the whole thing out. Take a bit of feel to get it but its not hard. usually the auger will cost aroud 30 buck or so ( Alot cheaper than a 100 to 300 toilet)<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How to repair drywall that has adhesive patches all over from removing decorative mirror tiles? by Adrian C</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-to-repair-drywall-that-has-adhesive-patches-all-over-from-removing-decorative-mirror-tiles/comment-page-1#comment-58</link>
		<dc:creator>Adrian C</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:48:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/drywall-repair/how-to-repair-drywall-that-has-adhesive-patches-all-over-from-removing-decorative-mirror-tiles#comment-58</guid>
		<description>If you try to sand the wall you may damage the paper cover either soak the adhesive and scrape it if it goes soft or have the wall skim plastered.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you try to sand the wall you may damage the paper cover either soak the adhesive and scrape it if it goes soft or have the wall skim plastered.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How do you repair a stopped toilet? by milton b</title>
		<link>http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet/comment-page-1#comment-42</link>
		<dc:creator>milton b</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:46:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://handymanservices.swadish.net/toilet-repair/how-do-you-repair-a-stopped-toilet#comment-42</guid>
		<description>The only way I know to do this is to clean the toilet out with a closet auger.  You should be able to bury one at a home center.  It isn't a plesant job, but you can do it yourself.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The only way I know to do this is to clean the toilet out with a closet auger.  You should be able to bury one at a home center.  It isn&#8217;t a plesant job, but you can do it yourself.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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